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Note from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen.

Dark chocolate ganache and pistachio semifreddo with phyllo at Jaji in Oakland..Courtesy of Hardy Wilson for Jaji.

At this popular new restaurant in., Dubai chocolate elements layer into a beautifully plated dessert.. Jaji.recently opened as the only upscale Afghan restaurant in the Bay Area, where co-owner Sophia Akbar celebrates her heritage through creative dishes.

She and pastry chef Isaac Carter were keen on developing a pistachio dessert, a key ingredient in rice puddings and toasty baklava.. For his cool take on the trend, Carter layers dark chocolate ganache and pistachio semifreddo, separated with sheets of phyllo and stacked in a square.He crowns each piece with a swirl of kataifi strands, cut a little longer than usual.

Akbar promises you don’t need a knife, it’s easy to crush a spoon all the way through.

“I will say it won over my grandmother, which is hard,” Akbar says., starting at just $16.

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